A stylists’s working knowledge of cutting techniques for different hair textures can make or break a mane, especially when it comes to thick, full hair. For those clients who crave a light. airy texture and removal of unnecessary weight, take note—ahead, top LA stylists share their favorite cutting techniques for thick hair, whether to cut on wet or dry hair, and the best shears to get the heavy job done.
I use multiple approaches. I start by point cutting the entire perimeter of the cut with shears which helps soften the overall shape and density. I then use thinning shears to create my layers. This creates soft lines throughout the interior. Depending on how thick someone’s hair is I will follow up with my thinning shears at the perimeter and in the layers. 10% is removed with a perpendicular angle, and 30% at a 45-degree angle. When you use only the tip of the thinning shear, it cuts gentler than using the middle section.
All my shears are FEEL scissors. The thinning shear model I use, Yw285, cuts effortlessly. It removes different amounts of volume depending on the angle you hold them when cutting. My shear is also great for scissor over comb, chipping, point cutting, and feather cutting. I prefer to thin while the hair is dry. You can better see the weight distribution throughout a head of hair and customize where the hair needs bulk removal.
Having good shears and thinning shears is key but also knowing when to dig in and also when to stop. You don’t want to thin someone’s hair to the point that it looks damaged or as if they haven’t had a cut in months. It defeats the point. There’s a sweet spot you want to get to for the thickness your client can deal with.