My friend @samiclarke has naturally dark, almost black hair. We’ve been doing dark glosses on her to make her color look fresh and shiny. She then decided to go an icey blonde color. It took us two five-hour days to achieve this color. And this is what we did:
We started with removing all old color and using a Pravana Color Remover under the dryer. Then once we had a clean palette, I went in and highlighted her whole head using Wella BLONDOR and 30vol, also adding OLAPLEX to the lightener. We did every hair in a foil about a half inch off the root focusing on mid to ends in foil.
Once we got to the lift we wanted, we shampooed her and did an in-between treatment with Loreal Pro Absolute Repair Mask (my fave) then we went back in to bleach her roots. We used BLONDOR WELLA 20vol at the root with OLAPLEX.
Once everything lifted evenly we shampood her using Unite BLONDA, a purple shampoo that’s my favorite. Then we shampooed and had her sit with the OLAPLEX No. 2 for about five minutes while we mixed out toners and gloss!
For her all-over toner I used LOREAL DIA LIGHT 10.12 and 10.21 with 6volume we started with applying to root then went to the ends. Once we got her to this ice color we wanted more of a shine factor so we glossed her with SHADES EQ 9v and 9p with clear. To be exact, we used (.50oz of clear) to (.25oz 9v + .25oz 9p) with (1oz processing solution) and sit for five minutes. This gave it that extra shiny glossy affect to it.
I bleached out using Redken flashlift with 25 volume with 1/8th of OLAPLEX on the new growth, separating with cotton for no overlap and processed for 45 minutes. I then tonesd using 2/3 clear and 1/3 9V starting at the roots and pulling through for seven minutes.
For all my bleach and tones I recommend using OLAPLEX No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5 to maintain the health of the hair and using Pravana The Perfect Blonde Shampoo once a week for the icy-ness.
Formula: Stephanie, a natural level 6, receives a full head of highlights approximately every 4-6 months. To achieve her icy platinum look, we use Redken Flash Lift with dedicated 20 volume developer and Uberliss Bond Sustainer; rinsing each section once desired level of lift has been achieved (level 10 or pale yellow). While remaining foils process, each subsection is detangled with a Wet brush and masked using Uberliss Bond Amplifier. Once highlights are finished processing, Stephanie is shampooed twice with IGK’s Instafamous Blonde Shampoo to help neutralize any unwanted warmth. Stephanie is then brought back from the shampoo bowl to the color chair and prepped/brushed out for a root gloss. Dividing the hair into four sections, Stephanie is root smudged with Redken Shades EQ 7N and 7V in equal parts and processed for seven minutes. Afterwards, Stephanie is all over glossed with Redken Shades EQ 9V, 9P, and 9GB, again in equal parts, for an additional five minutes. To follow up with hair care, Stephanie is then conditioned with IGK Instafamous Blonde Conditioner which is top coated with the Uberliss Bond Amplifier. Maintenance: To maintain her color between visits, I recommend Stephanie uses IGK Mixed Feelings Leave-In Blonde Drops which can be added into any shampoo, conditioner, or styling product of her choice.
As a stylist in South Florida, this is one of the most challenging colors to achieve. Between the constant sun and the hard water, blonde hair tends to turn orange. Because of this, a color so light and cool-toned is high maintenance!
I do a full foil of back-to-back highlights to create overall lightness using Kenra Simply Blonde Blue powder lightener along with Kenra Simply Blonde 30 volume developer. Once the hair is lifted to a level 10, I use the Joico Lumishine toner 9NV and the Pravana The Perfect Blonde Shampoo.